Garment-cutting device



Jan. 29, 1924. 1,481,804

. A. LUONGO G rARMENT CUTTING DEVICE Filed Sept. 23, 1921 `6Sheet='-Sheet 1 IN V EN TOR we A TTORNE Y Jan. 29, 1924.

. A. LUONGO GAHMENT CUTTING DEVCE" Filed Sept. 23 1921 6 Sheets-Sheet 2-INVENTOR ATTORNEY Jan. 29, 1924. v

' A. LUONGO v GARMENT CUTTING DEVICE Filed sept. 2s

1921 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 @WN www IN VEN TOR M 0 B Y A TTORNE Y Jam 29,1924.

A. LUoNqo GARMENT CUTTING DEVICE Filed sept. 2 5. 192i e sheets-speed. 4

INVENTQR A TTORNE Y A. LUONGO GARMENT CUTTING DEVICE 1N VENTOR 6Sheets-Sheet 5 ATTORNEY Jan; 29,1924.

ASLSO `Fam. 29 1924.

A. LUoNGo l GARMENT CUTTING DEVICE Filed Sept. 23 1921 -INVENTORATTORNEY Patented Jan. 29, 1924. Y

Nini-influence or new vonk; vN Y,

, eanivrniirdnirrrneDavies.

App'iitmnfiea september' es; ise'if'- seirilai No. 502,894.1

'To all nimmst/may concern:

Be it known that State Vof New York, h ave invented kcertain new andAuseful improvements in Garment-` Luttingi Devices, oi which thefollowing-is a specification."A Y

This invention relates generally ytofgarment cutting` devices 'andparticularly tothef kind whereby garments may be quickly cut to vdesiredshapes and sizes.

@ne ofthe prime objects of my inventiony is to provide pattern-likeforms adjustable as to size and'shape and provided with marking" orcutting elements adapted Ato shailie themselves'to the vpattern-likeforms and either mark or cut oneor more layers of fabric or othermaterial at one operation.

Another object of my invention'is to provide within such pattern-likeforn'is"adjust-r` able means which may be operated? either individuallyor in unison.

rating; said press platform.

Another object is to 'provide operating' means forV simultaneouslyadjusting the size or sizes of one or a plurality ofl suchpaty'tern-likeforms, and a main indicating Vdevice adapted to indicate the size for aset of pattern-like forms.V` t y j Another object of my invention 'is toprovide in combination with the press platA forni, cloth receiving andadjusting means adapted to suspend fabric just below said press platform`prior to subjecting it to the marking or cutting operation.

The foregoing objects, and the operation and construction of'iny devicewill Ube moreL lfully apparent when "explained in general beforeproceeding to describe the `|detailspf my machine.

The heretofore used imethodsfof lcuttii'ig` garments particularly forthe readyl, Afivmm'io LUoiveo, av citizen of the United States, andresident of' New `York, in the county of NewYork and 1 associated "withoperating` means for eitlierlcweriiigor ele-1 i made trade iswell-known. Usually stan``r dardpat'terns are 'prepared' correspondingto various'sizes.'l The cutting` of garments according'to these patterns'is accomplished by tracing'the outlinesof the patterns upon the topilayerof a .,pile'of fabric, whichV isk then cut accordingly.'

lt is obvious that garments made according to the standard patternsAwill not fit an individual-unless he actually happens to be of standardsize. In

mostc'ases', however, thelgarments have to Vbefitted to the iiidividualsmeasurements,

as it isobvious thatonce garments are cut to the standard patterns, suchalterations'will not' result in'aperfect lit.v Theuse of stand!ard'patternsrequii'es a'great Vdea'lof eX- penditure, sincel theyhave-to be replaced very often accordingto the style in vogue, 4andentail additional expense through the alterationsi which becomenecessary after the garment is finished My devic'efis designed-I toobviate these Y disadvanta'ges and 5to provide only one set" ofpermanent 1 patterns which `may be f changed tov various sizes, forms,or styles `without necessitatingwanyf renewal, except the sharpening` ofthe edges of the knives 'myfdevice Y f y The general principle of myinvention consists of a. combination .of cti-acting, yinter- -connectedlinks forming; pattern-like shapes,

with'which'lare associated marking 0r cut- V'ting elements which l* willterm for shortl f blades, and -whichare adapted to conform with theshape imparted to the patterns.

Associated with' these links af'plurality of adjusting elements at suchportions of the pattern, corresponding# to places. of

mea'surementsusually taken `about thebody of an individual, so thattheir yshapes at these places may be adjusted to any desired size. VSofor instance adjustments maybe niadeat ythe part corresponding to thechest, the waist, armhole, etc.v

Thereis another set of adjustingmeans associated with the patternsYwhichi permit the lengthening or shortening of the shapes.

Each of the adjustingmeans are equipped.

with a dial indicating various sizes to which `they may be adjusted.These dials are equipped with gear transmissions which vmay be.'operated 'simultaneously from one -provided that the,v

point of the emachine, cutting` of normalsizes takes place. Howill.)

ever in the eventrga'rrnents are'to be cut in` the manner generallyknown as custommadc-that is where theV measurements of a person aretaken and the garments are cut according to those measurements-themachine is set to the normal size, and in places where the normal sizedoes not correspond with the measurements taken, the gear arrangement isdisconnected from that particular section of the pattern and thissection is then manually adjusted to the proper size.

The adjustment of my device neces-` sitates that the blades for markingor cutting the garments assume the proper form imparted to the pattern.l therefore provide double blades between two sections or links whichare adapted to be spread or drawn together. Each of the bladesisattached to one ofthe sections and extends into the other section, sothat when such links are spread apart, the blades still forni acontinuous line for the marking or cutting operation. The patterns arepreferably placed upon a stationary table, above which is arranged apress platform equipped with cloth suspension means and adapted to bepressed against the blades when the patterns have been set to properdimensions.

The foregoing will be more fully apparent from the following descriptionin connection with the accompanying drawings, indicating inadiagrammatical way the principle of my construction, and in which:

Figure l is a diagranunaticalside elevation of my device.

Figures 2 and 3f are plan viewsv of my pate terns.

Figure 4 indicates a diagrammatical plan view of a modied pattern.

Figure 5 is a diagrammatical sectional view taken on line 5 5 of Figure1.

kFigure G is a top view of the press platform of my device.

Figure 7 represents a typical form of a blade.

Figure 8 is a top view and Figure 9 a side elevation of a typicalportion of my device for marking or cutting notches in fabrics.

Figure 10 represents a typical arrangement of my adjusting means.

Figure 11 is a cross sectional view taken on line 11-11 of Fig. 10. f

Figure 12 is a cross sectional view taken on lines 12-12 of Fig. 10.

Figure 13 is a cross sectional view taken on line 13-13 of Fig. 11. f

Figure 14 is a partial detail view of my pattern operating mechanism.

Figure 15 is a top View thereof.

Figure 16 is a sectional view taken on line 16-16 of Fig. 15.

Figure 17 represents a detail view of my length adjusting mechanism.l

Referring to the drawings numeral 10 denotes a stationary table or base,supported by a plurality of legs 11 which are preferably equipped withrollers 12 to permit the moving of the table upon the Hoor. The legs arepreferably mlade of channels or angle irons, in which are guideduprights 13 equipped with gear racks 14 5) which are operated invertical upward or downward direction by means of gears 15.

The latter are driven either manually or by power. When driven manually,a hand wheel 16 is operated upon shaft 17 on which is provided a worm 18engaging a worm gear 19, which latter is keyed to a shaft 20, upon whichare also keyed gears 15. By means of a worm and worm gear transmission,the opposite shaft 21. is operated simultaneously with shaft 20. When mydevice is to be driven by power, as for instance by an electric motor,as indicated at 22, a central shaft 23, upon which pulley 22 iskeyed, iscaused to rotate, whereby worms 24, keyed to shaft 23, revolve whichagain cause the worm gears 25 to rotate. On the shaft of the worm gea-rs25 are keyed respectively worms 18 and 18 which cause the operation ofshaft 20. f

The uprights 13 are permanently attached to the press table or platform27 as shown in detail in Fig. 6. Thellatter is composed of an upperCplate provided with reinforcements 28, an a lower plate indicated at29, which is preferably made of yieldable niaterial, as for instancerubber cork, soft wood, felt or the like, in which the blades of mydevice may bury themselves.

Attached to the platform 27 is a set of rollers 30 and 31, through whichis drawn one or more layers of the fabric indicated at 32. Connectinothe end standards of the platform is a pair of guide rods indicated at33, upon which glides a material attaching member indicated at 34 andinto which the end of the material is placed and drawn from the endwhere rollers 30 and 31 are attached to the opposite end of theplatform, so that the material is drawn overt-he entire length of themachine.

Through the operation of shafts 20 platform 27 may be lowered orelevated toward or from the base or table 10. Its lowered osition isindicated in broken lines in Placed upon table 10 are my patternsindicated diagrammatically in Figures 2 and 3, where numerals l and Ilrepresent a pattern of the side of a garment. Numeral lli represents thefront portion of the coa-t of a garment, while IV and V represents theback of the. coat portion, and numeral VI is a` pattern of the undersleeve, numeral VH the upper sleeve portion. Numeral VIII is a patternof the back portion ofthe trousers 5k leo lli

. diate links 51 and 52, an angular end link A IX is the front portionof the trousers; and Xis a pattern or' the Vfront of thevest.

In Fig.4there isshown a pattern ofthe:`

and within that patternthere isv 'shown'a4`r vest indicated at X.Similar to the .Vestpatl tern there is shown in Fig. 2, an inner undersleeve pattern Vl within the upper sleeve pattern VH. Since thekprinciple fol construction and operation is similar in:k all patterns, lshall restrict my description to the pattern indieating the front andside portions of the coat. Y

Referring to the right half ofv Fig. 2,

the front section indicated at III consistsy of a substantially straightfrontline .which is composed of a pluralityof interconnecting:

again in the opposite directionanother seriesor' links 42, 43, 44, and45. Upper link 36 is i provided with a curved portion36 and Vbetweenlinks 36 and 45 there is an intermediate link 46 delining the collarcut-out of the garment.

All of the links are preferably provided with a. base adapted to restuponv table 1 0 and a channel-formed uprightportion in which latterthere are securedblades indicated at 47, which extend over the entirelength and over the f spaces between such links. y Y

Near the spaces between the.'A links, two blades are preferablyprovided, so. thatthe cutting or marking edge of the .pattern `willextend over and will assume an endless line.

link i5 comprises the frontshoulder liner of the garment.

Section portion Il comprises the middle portion of the'coat,.andisfcomposed of an angularly shapedk top link 48, an interme' diate link49, a curved link 50, two interme- 53, the lower part of which forms thelower end of the coat, and which continuesvto another angulartlink 54.vThere are a number of intermediate links and 56 continuing upward to thearm hole vlink 57 the curved portion 57 of which-represents the armhole.

Between the link portion 57 and the link 48 there is an angularintermediate link 58 coinaletino the contour oit the arm hole at one.end and the shoulder portionat the other end. e The side portion I isalsogcomposedot` a lurality of links 59, 60 and 61, lower anguar endlinks 62 and 63; intermediate links 64, 65, 67 and a top link 68formingy the continuation of the armholel line.

Referring to yportion lll it will be seen that extending trom link 45there is a bracket 69 to the end of which is attached an internallythreaded tube 70, which is engaged.

by a threaded spindle 71 ,rotatably mounted in a bracket 72 whichlconnects withy link 46. Then spindle 71 is operated either in clockwiseor anti-clockwise direction, the distancer between the sharp points oflink 46 and link 45 is either increased or reduced. Similarly is thedistance in pattern section ll altered between links y48 and 58. Fromthe former there extends a bracket 7 3,' from the latter a bracketindicated at 74, to which is attached a tube 75. Engaging the tube is aspindle 76 which ossesses a universal link indicated at 77. Vhen thespindle is rotated, the distance between the sharp point of links 48 and58 is either reducedor increased,

r:Che other end of spindle 76 protrudes into` a .tube 78 to which it isattached by means of a set screw 79.v rlube 78 is externally threadedand engages an internally threaded tube ,80, which is attached .tobracket69 or link .45. rlube 8() may be made either stationary withinbracket 69 lby tightening screw81, or may revolvetogether with tube 78by loosening setfsorew 81.

When rit is rdesired to adJustt-he distance between links-48 and 58, setscrew 81 is loosened and screw 79 is tightened, theretaneously with tube78. When it is desired to adjust the distance between link 45-and link48,set screw-79 is loosened and screw ico by permitting tube l78y torotate directly spindle 76, while'tube 80will rrotate simul 81 istighteneththe latter operation preventing tube from rotating. Now whentube 78 is turned either to the left or right,

tube 8O actsv as a nut andthe distance between the links` 45 and 48`may. be adjusted(k By means of an arrangement which'will beexplainedlater, and indicated at 82, the

distance between link pair 48-58, and link" pair 49-57 in section ll maybe adjusted.- Similarly the adjustment of the length or' the severedvlinks 36- and 45y isl accomplished,Vr so that the entire length betweenthe shoulder line and the bust line of the Vpattern may be eitherlengthened or shortened.

B, means of an arrangement indicated at 83 tlie bust line of all threepattern sections may be simultaneously shortened or lengthened. By meansot arrangement 84 the notchor cut-out formed between the right ends oflinks44510 and the sharp points ot links 45-48, may be adjusted. Bymeans or" arrangement indicated at 85, the waist .line yot thepatternmay be altered. Byar- Voi1 pattern sections 91 and 92, while the lowestdistancing arrangement between patterns il .and 111 is indicated at 93.

ln order to explain the operation of the several adjusting arrangements,the details shown in Figs. 10, 11, 12, and 13, will be explained.

Referring to F ig. 10, numeral 9/1- denotes one link portion providedvwith a channel extension 95 and attached to an intermediate link 96connected through that link, and a gearrack frame 97, to k 93. rlielatter is also equipped with a it ing channel 99.' ln the hannels 95 and99 there is provide-d a double knite indicated at 10i) and shown indetail in Fig. 1

101 and 10.2, ard also link portions 103 and e. However, .nstead ot agear rack between link portions 101 and 102, there are provided guidemembers 105 upon which link portion 102 may glide.

rl`he aforementioned aia-angementA is adapted for the adjustment of thelength of the patterns-that is the adjustment of distances between links94-98-101-102* and-l08-104-rcspectivelylt will be observed that passingthrough the gear rack arrangements 97 and 97 and through the guides 105there is arranged a member indicated at 10G equipped with gears 107 and107 engaging gear racks 97 and 97, respectively. By turning rod 108either in clockwise or in anti-clockwise direction, lgears 107 and 107are caused to rotate. rlhe gears being lodged and permanently associatedwith the ends 109 and 109r ot' link portions 9S and 10e, respectively,cause these link portions to travel either trom or toward link portionsand 103, and while so traveling cause yalso iink portions 101 and 102 totravel either toward or from each other By means of the typicalarrangement indicated at 110, the distance between link group 101-102,and group 10S-104 may be adjusted. lt will be seen that rod 110 engagesa spindle 111Vwhich is connected by a universal link 112 to spindle113.` These Similarly arraiA ed are the link portionsV cated at 119 andmay be engaged by a square f rod member 120 and rotated thereby ineither clockwise or anti-clockwise direction, thereby causing thereduction or expansion ot the distances between the aforesaid linkmember pairs. Spindle 118 is connected by means olf a universal link 121to spindle 122 by means of whichthe distance between link members103--104 and the Correspending` link member (not shown in the drawing jis adjusted.

It it is desired that the width adjustment between link member pairs9-/1`98 and 101 102 should not take place, but only the adjustmentbetween link member pairs 103 A04 and its corresponding pair (notshown), this is accomplished by loosening set screw 123 which normallyholds tubular member 117 against rotation. When permi ting` member 117to rotate with spindle 118, they distance between link pairs 911-98 andy101--102 will not be altered. The above movements are the principlemovements ot my arrangement and are typical in their construction.

rEhe operation of simultaneously adjusting the patterns to their propershapes is accomplished by'an arrangement indicated at 124 in Fig. 2 andshown in details .in Figs. le, 15,116 and 17.

Each oi the spindles extending Jfrom the patternsare connected with anindividual gear boi; 125, which generally consists of a pair of .spurgears 126, and 127, a pair of mitre gears 128 and 129. a worm 130, aworm gear-131, and gears 132 and As may be seen spur gear 127 and worm130 are operated by a square shatt 134: which again is rotated by meansof a hand wheel 135 keyed together with worm 136 to shaft 157, said wormeng kring worm gear 138,the latter bei-ng permanently associated withsquare'shait 134.

The arrangement shown in l? ig. 2 indicates that a plurality otinter-connected shafts extend about the table and engage the severalgear boxes 125 indicated in this figure by dials. Now when wheel 135 iso ierated spur gear 127 will cause the rotation of spur gear 126 whichagain will rotate mitre gear 128; and this in turn will cause therotation ot mitre gear 129 which engages an operating' rod 139 as shownin F ig. 15', which rod forms an operative conuection betweenthe gearboxes and spindles. (idee also Fig. '10, operating rods .108 and 120.)

While shaft 134 is `rotated worm130 is also caused to rot-ate andtransmits itsmotion-to the worm gear v131 which is connected by shait`14() tothe Vouter gear132 -which turns gear 133 which latteroperates-an indicator lb and -141 against they dial 142.permanently'a'ssociated with box 125. i Y

It will be observed'. hat the dial .142is provided with an opening 143Vthrough which passes the operating rod 139. vThe latter is equipped`with a knurled handle 139.

Comparing Figs. 14, 15, 16 with'Fig. 10, it will be evident that rod 139(which may for instance correspond to the rod 12O-sho'wnin Fig; maybe'withdrawn when -so desired in` order to render arrangement 116inoperative. ln other words, if it isfdesired that through the operationof-wheel 135,' one yparfl l) ticular Agear box shall not causetheoperation of the corresponding ust-ing arrangement, the operatingrod 139or its equivalent is withdrawn from theg'ear box.y A i Of courseatterwithdrawing such-operating rod, it is evident that itscorresponding adjusting arrangement may be adjustedby hand.

ln Fig. 17v there is shown a combination ot' a pair ot gear boxes 144'and 145 through which passes a square shaft 134 andV operatessimultaneously spur gears'146 and 147. Permanently attached tof-gear box144fand held against rotation is an' internally threaded tube 148engaged by a threaded spindle'149 which is loperated through spur gear147, engaging another lspur gear v1147.

It is obvious that the spindle is rotatable and when driven in onedirectionwill be drawn into tube 148' and twhen rotated in opposite'direction vwill b-e 'withdrawn therefrom, thereby causingr theadjustmentof 'the distance betweenV gear boxes 144 and 145. v ln gearbox 145 there is a similar arrange-V ment of gears, worm and 'worm wheelas that vshown inrv 14, 15 'and 16, while gear box 144 is shown here toVserve merely for the purpose. oi adjusting the distances between the twoboxes. vI-loweyer, also that gear box may be arranged'similarly to gear190x145. Y

The arrangement shown in Figfl? 'is particularly designed to beconnected with the pattern adjusting arrangement adapted to adjust thelengt-hs of theshalpes'i' In other words theb-oxes `followvthe motion ofthe length adjustments of the pattern links.

As has been said before the blades may be used either for cutting ormarking purposes, and attention is called to sections VI and VII of Fig.2, and to sections I', II and HI', and section X' of Fig. 4.

In the formerv there'is shown the lower simultaneous, since theadjustiner elements rareconnected in both the inner and outer patterns.f

Similarly karranged is the cutting pattern shown inFig. 4where withinthe Jfront portion of the coat pattern H" and IH there is arranged amarking pattern X correspondingto the front partof the Vest. It willrlalso be evident that the adjustment ot the vest pattern will correspondto theA adjustment ofthe coat pattern in width, length, or

other adjustments Also `in this arrangement 4it is clear that the:blades of the coat pattern will cutl the material while the blades ofthe vest pattern will mark a sheet laid upon theseblades before thecutting operation has ytaken place.

The marking patterns as shownv in Figs. 2 and 4 are merely illustrativeof the Various possi-ble arrangements ot my device. :y Refer-ring toFigs.A 7, 8, and 9 it will be seen thatblades (Fig. 7) are provided witha recess 152.. adapted to engage corresponding lugs 153 provided withinthe chan- `'nel extensions 99 oftheknife supports soas l to-prevent theblades fromileaving 'their re- `spective channels whilepernnttingthem.to slide ywithinV the channels of the adjacent links.,

From Figs. 2 and it will be evident that therev are two sets .of kdialsconnecting withV thetwosets of adjusting'means--that is one lset indicatedi at154 kc'orresnonding to the 'length adjusting means; whileAdials 155 correspond toy the width adjusting kmeans of lthe patterns.There is a mainV dial 156 which isconnectedwith square shaft 134 andwhich `indicates the setting-of the'entireinachine vv`to desired sizesfor inst., sizes 82,134, 38, 46, etc. r Eachof th'e'dials 154 and 155are proyided with` graduations .(not shown in the drawings) and willindicate simultaneouslyk with the main dial the changes imparted to theindividual'.portions of. the patterns.

As has been said before-the setting ot my patterns may be done eithersimultaneously.

`for cutting cloth for ready-made suits, or l `may be adjustedindividually for custommade clothes. When the former method is employedit is only necessary to operate wheel V until the main dial shows the?ian proper size to which the garment is to be cut. rEhe patterns willthen adjust themselves automatically to the corresponding dimensions.

If it is necessary to make manual adjustments due to over or under size,or other differences in measurements inany particular part of thepatterns, that part is disconnected `by withdrawing the operating rod139 from gear bon- 125, whereafter hand wheel 135 is operated in themanner stated previously until the proper size on dial 156 is indicated.Then the manual adjustment of the disconnected pattern portions takesplace, and the cutting Operation follows.

When the patterns are thus set, one or incre layers of fabrics is drawnbetween rollers and 3l and its end is attached to the attaching bar 34,guided upon rod 33 and then the attaching rod 34 is drawn toward theopposite end of the machine, so that the underface of the press platformis completely covered by the material. `Now when any of the markingpatterns are to be used, a sheet of paper or other material is' placedthereupon and the press platform' is lowered in the direction towardtable l0 by operating either hand wheel 16 or pulley 22, until thematerial is pressed against the blades which causes the cutting of thematerial and the marking of the outlines of the -patterns upon thesheetof paper placed over the marking blades.

TWhile I have indicated a specific construction of my device be itunderstood that the dra-wings are merely diagrammatical and illustratethe broad principle of my invention only. I therefore wish to have itunderstood that I shall not be limited to the construction shown andI'reserve for myself the right to make changes, improvements orcompletely work out my device in a practical and workable manner withoutdeparting from the broad scope of my invention, for which I claim:

l. In a garment cutting and marking device having a` plurality ofindividual pattern resembling units provided withk self-adjustingcutting or marking'blades adapted to conform With the contours impartedto said units, a plurality of individual adjusting means in each of saidunits adaptedto control the shaping of various portions of each of saidunits, a main connection'for all of said adjusting means, all of saidunits, and means for collectively controlling and Asimultaneouslyoperating all ofy said adjusting means through said mainconnection.

2. In a garment cutting and marking device having a plurality ofindividual pattern resembling units as per claim l, gagesassociated-With each of said individual adjusting means for indicatingtheir position, and a ymain gage associated with the said mainconnection, for indicating the size to which all of said units arecollectively adjusted.

3. In a garment cutting and marking device having a plurality ofindividual pattern ,resembling units provided with self adjustingcutting or markingy blades adapted to conform with the contours impartedto said units, a plurality of individual adjusting means in each of saidunits, one portion of said adjusting means adapted to control the lengthadjustment of said units, the'other Vportionof said adjusting meansadapted to control the Width adjustment of said units, each of saidadjusting means provided with an individual gage for controlling anddenoting the degrees of adjustments made, a main connection associatingall of said gages and all of said adjusting means and provided with amain gage denoting various sizes. and said main connection adapted tofacilitate simultaneous and collective adjustment of all the units'andmeans for operatingsaid main connection to the desired size indicated bysaid main gage.

4. In combination with a garment cutting and marking device as per claim3, a stationary member for glide-bly supporting said units, a frameextending above said member; a press member associated with said frameand adapted to bear against said blades of said units.

5. In combination with a. garment cutting and marking device as perclaim 3, a station- Vary member for glidably supporting said units, aframe extending above said stationary member, a press member adapted tobe guided within said frame and to descend upon said blades of saidunitsand means for lowering or lifting said press member.

6. In combination with a garment cutting and marking device as per claim5, fabric ysuspension and stretching means associated with said pressmember adapted to spread a pieceof fabric over the length of said pressmember and between the latter and the Said blades of said units.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

